Restaurant Review by Ian Tobman

Have you heard of an authentic Druze cuisine in New York City? Without the help of Google search engine, do you know who the Druze are and where they come from?

With autumn around the corner, and everything seems changing around me—the weather, the color of the leaves—I thought it would also be interesting to deviate from my daily gastronomic route.

So, one Friday night, a couple of my Israeli friends and I headed down to Gazala Place, in Hell’s Kitchen, for food that I don’t normally come across. Located on the corner of 9th Avenue and 49th Street, I was excited what Gazala could offer.

The first thing I noticed about this family-run restaurant is its size: small and narrow. On my way to the bathroom, I barely slipped past the two cooks and the storage. Of course, the small space added to our casual dining experience as people at the table next to us suggested some dishes they truly enjoyed.

Gazala is known to be the only restaurant in New York City, or perhaps around the country, that offers Druze cuisine. Historically, the Druze is a religious community found mainly in Lebanon, Syria, Israel and Jordan. Essentially the Druze is a mixed race. By tradition, they mainly depend on olives and fruits for food, but because of a medley of different regional influences, a typical Druze meal could be Turkish bourekas and salads, Lebanese vine leaves, zaatar and olive oil, and Israeli falafel and chak choka (eggs over sautéed garlic, onions and tomatoes).

My only prior exposure to Druze food was in a communal meal I had a number of years ago in a dessert tent in Israel. There, large plates of shredded lamb were served on a bed of rice. And although I knew Gazala Place wouldn’t have large cushions to nap on afterwards, it was a hearty experience.

The number of Druze in the United States, according to the American Druze Society, is estimated between 15,000 and 20,000. But their small population in the country didn’t deter Gazala Place to introduce the delicious Druze food for New Yorkers’ palate.

Perusing the extensive menu, my friends and I decided to start with mosabaha—a tangy hummus with a separate dose of chickpeas, vine leaves with yogurt, and a large boreka stuffed with goat cheese and spinach. A nice bonus was the thin pita made in the front window on a griddle, keeping our meal light. For me, though, the highlight was Gazala Place’s round boreka, a specialty of Phyllo dough pastry filled with rich and creamy goat cheese and spinach. For those who are not voracious for a big entrée, a good option might be to order the restaurant’s appetizer sample platter.

But I agree with my Israeli friends: Although the chickpeas could have been blended in, Gazala Place’s creamy hummus is on a par—or, better even—with any famous humus chains, like the Hummus Place, that now dot the city.

For our entrees, we asked our friendly and attentive waitress what she could recommend, only to follow our own preference. We opted for the lamb kebab and the moshakal—a combo of chicken, lamb and kafta (beef flavored with parsely onion). While the lamb kebab was dry and bland, the chicken and the kafta beef, especially, made up for it. Both plates came with rice, small salad and a yogurt sauce. The serving is relatively big, but I would prefer to get some appetizers and sides.

Now we came down to Gazala’s irresistible dessert. I have to admit that it was quite challenging what to choose from. Gazala is known for its baklava, proud of its kenafi (a semolina pastry stuffed with cream and nuts, topped with syrup) but has a special homemade treat, Osh Al-Saraia—a gelatinous blending of cream, honey, orange blossom and rose water. Our waitress’s face lit up when she explained Osh so, without further ado, we went for it. The Osh must be the pancakes the Druze serve in heaven, with sweet cheese serving as its base, topped with pistachio, honey and raspberries.

On our way out I caved and ordered baklava to go. Although Gazala Place has also boreka’s and other baked goods, I definitely recommend bringing home some Osh for a snack.

Gazala is, undoubtedly, a fun, inexpensive restaurant that you must experience. With a plethora of Middle Eastern food options that this city has to offer, make it a point to try Gazala Place’s Druze cuisine, at least once, and I guarantee you that it will not be your last.

709 9^th Ave corner 49^th.

Price: entrees between $7-$15

Website: http://www.gazalaplace.com/

Reservations: recommended. (212) 245-0709